Allyson Chiu
The Washington Post - When a patient of Noëlle Sherber came to her a few months ago, the dermatologist noticed that the woman had an eye infection. It was a small, easily manageable stall, but Sherber still wanted to know what was causing it.
Sherber learned that the patient, who had been home since mid-March, recently applied makeup using products that had remained largely intact for months after she, like many others, reduced it. her usual beauty routine during the coronavirus pandemic.
I asked him, 'How old is your mascara? Your eyeliner? Said Sherber, a fellow of the American Academy of Dermatology and co-founder of Sherber and Rad. Sherber noted that the woman hadn't bought any new cosmetics in a while and apparently thought she was "extending the shelf life of the product" by adding her Eye makeup didn't often wear.
While many of us felt we were stuck in time since the pandemic began, Sherber and other experts have pointed out that the time is "ticking" for makeup and skin care products. the skin, which is usually shorter. lives than most people expect and can become contaminated with potentially dangerous germs.
"Some people think that what contaminates their products is daily use: opening, closing, applying to the face," said Kathleen Suozzi, director of the Aesthetic Dermatology Program at Yale School of Medicine. While frequency of use is a factor, the real "Achilles heel," Suozzi said, is when preservatives in products start to break down, making makeup more susceptible to the growth of bacteria like staph or E. coli, which can cause skin irritation or worse, cause infections.
In the eyes of dermatologists, most people fail in their efforts to keep makeup products clean. "It's a challenge because we walk very quickly when we're in the bathroom and getting ready in the morning," said Pooja Sodha, director of the GW Center for Laser Dermatology and Cosmetics. "It's the smallest things we forget that can potentially contaminate our makeup."
Makeup wearers also tend to be overwhelmed by the fact that cosmetics "stay long and can be used simply because they look normal and don't smell bad," Sherber said. "But a lot can still happen under the microscope."
A 2019 study in the UK looked at popular makeup lipsticks, lip glosses, eyeliners, masks and sponges known as beauty mixers. It was found that between 79 and 90% of the products tested were contaminated with bacteria such as Staphylococcus aureus and E. coli. Beauty blenders, which are often used wet, had the highest bacterial load, according to the study published in the Journal of Applied Microbiology.
Ideally, Sodha said, brushes should be washed after each use and any type of sponge treated as disposable, but ultimately the process is "very individual" and people need to figure out what works for them.
Los Angeles-based dermatologist Ivy Lee encourages patients to follow good hygiene practices and establish a routine.
"Our goal is perfection, but we also don't want perfect to be the enemy of good," said Lee.
Seattle makeup artist and educator Stacie Thomas said she thoroughly cleans the brushes and sponges she uses every week. In between washes, he recommended cleaning stains with an instant spray brush cleaner after each use.
If a weekly wash is not possible, Suozzi suggested reserving time twice a month. He noted that people shouldn't worry if they haven't used their brushes or sponges. However, if these tools are to be stored, it is advisable to wash them before use.
"It's quite a chore trying to clean all of your makeup brushes," she says. "The way you clean them is also important."
Experts generally recommend using a mild facial cleanser and water to wash brushes and sponges. The cleanser should be the same one you use on your face, Lee said. "Keep it simple. What is safe and gentle on your face is safe and gentle on your products."
Beauty blenders are often harder to clean than brushes, Sodha said, because their dense, absorbent material can make it difficult to gauge how well they clean.
"There is no guarantee how effectively these mixers will remove bacteria," he said, and you will likely need to judge cleanliness by appearance.
Lee said beauty blenders should return to their original color and shape after a good wash. Visible signs of wear, such as missing parts or a blunt point, are signs that the sponge should be disposed of. Another way to alleviate cleaning problems is to buy cheaper sponges that can be changed every week or two, Suozzi said.
The brushes should be washed end down to minimize the amount of water that collects where the bristles meet the base, which is where mold can build up, Suozzi said. Avoid wringing out a brush after you wash, as it can damage your bristles, Lee said. Instead, press gently to absorb as much water as possible.
To dry the brushes, place them around a sink with the bristles hanging over the edge, Suozzi said. Lee said she spreads her brushes out to dry in the sun and checks that they are completely dry by using a light hand to check for residual moisture with a light brush.
Clean brushes and sponges should be kept away from dirty tools. "Be careful putting a dirty brush in the middle of your clean brushes unless you're ready to wash them all again," Sherber said.
The experts emphasized that it is also important to keep an eye on product expiration dates.
According to the Food and Drug Administration, there is no US law or regulation requiring cosmetic products to have a specific shelf life or expiration date on their labels. However, products often have a recommended time frame on the packaging, indicated by a small icon of an open jar with the number of months indicated in it.
"This clock starts ticking when you start wearing the product," said Sherber, adding that she often told patients that "makeup shouldn't be celebrating a birthday".
Liquid formulations, especially eye make-up such as mascara and eyeliner, have the shortest shelf life. Mascara, for example, needs to be changed every three to six months, Suozzi said, while powdered products can last for a year or two. Even unopened cosmetics can go wrong, he said, noting that a product you've had for more than three years should probably be thrown away.
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