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Do you have a question for Lennard? Email him at veloqna@comcast.net to be included in the technical FAQ.
dear lenhard,
I read your recent VeloNews articles on chain lubricants with great interest. The chain stretch on both of my road bikes is 0.5, so I will be replacing the chains (a Dura-Ace 11v, an Ultegra 10v).
Two questions:
1. In this article , you agree with the method Correspondent Kevin suggested: degrease with Simple Green, clean, then lube. Is there something special about Simple Green, or would something like this work on the string cleaner as well?
2. I have a bottle of Squirt "Clean" lube. According to the sharp advice in this article , Shimano's factory grease must be carefully removed for the Squirt to grip properly. But the ZFC recommendation recommends using "methyl alcohol" as the final cleaning/drying step after the solvent bath. Unfortunately, California, where I live, banned the sale of denatured alcohol in 2019 and it's hard to find more. On the other hand, I can easily buy 91% isopropanol at a local pharmacy for a few dollars. Do you know of problems with using isopropanol for the final cleaning/drying step before lubrication instead of methanol? I am not aware of California's Proposition 65 ban on acetone. I also got some clarification on the methylated spirits ban - it's not about spirits per se, it's about methanol which is more commonly used as a denaturant.
-Alex
Dear Alex,
I got answers to your questions from Zero Friction Cycling, Ceramic Speed, Silca and Molten Speed Wax.
From friction-free cycling:
I can't believe they banned denatured alcohol! This has such low toxicity - (it's classified as EXTREMELY LOW environmental toxicity). I checked all of this a long time ago as I use these chemicals a lot every day while prepping up to 100 threads a week. I don't want to get sick from cumulative exposure to anything. I take precautions with mineral turpentine (turpentine - low toxicity) because of the amount of handling, you really need to take the same precautions with any solvent, but a recent Google search on the ban on denatured alcohol confirms that environmental groups are critical of this decision. as a) totally and absolutely unnecessary and b) totally from a political point of view: there is no point in helping anything when it comes to the environment.
However, it is banned and more and more places around the world are finding it difficult to follow preparation instructions.
I really need to test products like UFO Clean properly. CS (Ceramic Speed) has always been honest with me and assured me it would remove the factory grease as promised. I'm only hesitant, knowing how hard factory grease is and how badly it comes off in a bath of white spirit. I'm hesitant to spray UFO Clean on a bike chain for a perfect prep. If it were me I would still remove the chain and soak it in UFO Clean and then rinse with water as they recommend. I need to know how many threads fit in a bottle of UFO Clean because it's not cheap. I just find it very difficult to confidently recommend this bike factory approach to grease removal based on the CS video instructions or one that uses a very expensive bottle for just some chain prep etc. - so I'll be doing more with CS, and I just need to find time to prove myself - something I've put off because, believe it or not, I'm so late for wax I don't even have a supply For my own waxing where there is a risk of contamination and ruining a batch I'm almost completely out even for prep retail chains - haven't had a wax pad at all for a while at risk of ruining a single bag - have about 150 orders and backorders of this wax as of this writing, many for many bags. Waxing isn't that special anymore! (which is a great job I must say).
I'll do the same with Silca's new degreaser, which also claims to be extremely eco-friendly; You can also check with Josh directly; My line with him is random based on his workload.
Long story short, my instructions (and probably some manufacturers like Molten Speed Wax) will probably be updated to add the option to use UFO Clean or Bio-Degreaser instead of white spirit and denatured alcohol. Based on these claims from reputable manufacturers, there should be no problem using it as advertised; I personally hesitate to make a recommendation that people follow until I'm absolutely 100% sure, which is why it's now on my most urgent list. that more and more people get stuck.
– Adam Kerin
Founder/Owner of Zero Friction Cycling
From Silca:
Isopropanol will work fine, I also think you can always get acetone in California which is my favorite, it's an amazing release and drying agent, while isopropanol just speeds up drying.
Also, we need to promote NO SIMPLE GREEN or at least use Simple Green Aircraft. I can't count the number of emails we get from people using Simple Green on their channels! Not good!
- Josh Portner
SILCA President
ceramic speed:
It is important to start with a completely bare chain before waxing/lubricating.
I think ZFC's advice for a final methylated spirit rinse is to remove any residue from other solvents. Alcohol leaves no residue and is therefore used as a final cleaning before waxing.
For example, white spirit and unscented white spirit will leave a slight oily residue that could affect the performance of the wax-based lubricant when the wax is applied to the oily residue.
Liqueurs essentially dissolve fat, which alcohol doesn't dissolve as well. The alcohol then removes the alcohol residue.
To answer your reader question, isopropyl alcohol should work just fine. Simply rinse off light residue, then wipe dry without leaving any residue. »
– Jason Smith
Chief Technology Officer, CeramicSpeed
Fast Wax Melting:
Aqueous solvents like Simple Green will not remove factory grease from a new chain like mineral spirits or citrus degreaser, the chain will always feel sticky.
Isopropyl works great as a conditioner, 90% or more should be used to reduce water content. The chain should be rinsed and hung to dry and not kept in alcohol.
-John
Cast Speed Wax LLC
So off you go with the isopropyl rinse, Alex. Obviously I shouldn't have shared Kevin's comment about cleaning with Simple Green without recommending another cleaning product. (And the "electrostatic" typo is still in that message; it should say "ultrasonic").
-Lenhard
dear lenhard,
Regarding your last post : "All models are wrong but some are useful."
-George EP Box
-Stone
Dear Peter,
Exactly my feeling. The Anhalt/Pörtner charts made a huge difference for me in understanding rolling resistance on non-smooth surfaces. They helped me develop the rolling resistance tests for Paris-Roubaix tires and gravel tires.
Some labs that test rolling resistance not only have a smooth roll, but also an undamped load on the wheel. This means that all tires tested in this configuration will continue to have lower rolling resistance the higher the tire pressure. I might have picked one of these labs to run these tests if I hadn't seen the Anhalt and Pörtner plots showing how a decreasing rolling resistance curve reaches an inflection point where rolling resistance suddenly reverses and begins to rapidly increase. air pressure. By choosing a viable testing lab and insisting on a rough drum surface, I was able to determine the pressure that corresponds to the minimum rolling resistance.
In fact, the Anhalt and Poertner model, while inaccurate, was a useful model for me and provided much more useful results that cyclists could use to reduce their rolling resistance.
-Lennard
Lennard Zinn ( https://www.velonews.com/byline/lennard-zinn ), our veteran tech writer, joined VeloNews in 1987. He is also a custom frame builder ( www.zinncycles.com ) and bike supplier, not personalized. Giant Bike Products ( bikeclydesdale.com ), former US National Team rider, co-author of The Haywire Heart and author of numerous books on bicycles including the DVD Zinn and the Art of Road Bike Maintenance and Zinn and the Art of Triathlon Bikes " and " Zinn's Introduction to Cycling: Maintenance and Skill-Building Tips for Cyclists ".
He has a bachelor's degree in physics from Colorado College.
Follow @lennardzinn
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