Washing your hair properly can be a delicate balance. You want to find a routine that's effective enough to remove buildup from your scalp and strands, but you also don't want to do anything that could damage and dry out your hair. For this reason, cleansing conditioners have been offered as a gentler alternative to shampoo in recent years. While these formulas can certainly be beneficial for dry hair, according to experts, they only work when used correctly, that is, with the right shampoo.
Why cleansing conditioners alone are not enough
"We clean our hair to remove dirt, oil, metals and other things. The benefit of cleansing your hair is that you can remove moisture from your hair, which is why we've opted for many sulfate-free shampoos," says Sharleen St. Surin-Lord, MD , a board-certified dermatologist based in Washington, DC. "My problem with a cleansing conditioner is that we have to wash our hair. And putting conditioner on your hair and thinking it's washed doesn't suit me because some people take it too far."
Cleansing conditioners are more popular with those with curly and frizzy hair, as curly hair tends to be drier. These products grew out of the idea of washing together , a practice that became popular in the early 2010s with the rise of the natural hair movement. Available shampoos were too harsh and drying for textured hair, so people skipped shampooing altogether and started "washing" their hair with conditioner.
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"Co-washing stems from the lack of a plentiful supply of sulfate-free shampoos on the market. And sulfates are those ingredients that create foam in shampoos, but also rob our hair of its natural oils and so on, people started using conditioners to wash their hair," says Gwen Jimmere , founder and CEO of hair care brand Naturalicious. There are many Products that are sulfate-free."
Today's cleansing conditioners are more than just "washing" your hair with conditioner. These products contain mild surfactants to help remove dirt and buildup from hair. But they aren't as thorough as a shampoo, which means some of that dirt can remain even after cleaning, which isn't good for the health of your hair or scalp.
"Although [cleansing conditioners] are gentle on the hair and help prevent tangles during cleansing, they don't adequately cleanse the hair and scalp," says Sophia Emmanuel , trichologist, hairstylist and owner of Crown Worthy Trichology Studio. In NYC. "If you use them frequently, your scalp will become clogged. This can cause many scalp problems including dandruff, excessive itching, seborrheic dermatitis and hair loss."
Examples include the lawsuits that companies like DevaCurl and Wen have faced. In 2020, 13 class action lawsuits were filed against DevaCurl in New York , California and Florida. The plaintiffs alleged that some of the products, including the brand's No-Poo and Low-Poo cleansing conditioners, caused hair loss, scalp irritation and balding. WEN Hair Care faced a similar lawsuit in 2015 when plaintiffs alleged similar damage and hair loss from the use of Wen Cleansing Conditioner, a "5-in-1 formula" that replaces shampoo, conditioner, deep conditioner, detangler and no-conditioner All of those lawsuits resulted in settlements, with DevaCurl paying $5.2 million and Wen paying $26.3 million .
"Co-washing with products that are considered poop-free creates excessive build-up on the hair and scalp because co-washing products don't remove excess dirt, debris, or sebum build-up on the scalp," says Emmanuel. "If dirt and excess oil are left on the scalp for too long, it can trigger hair loss, which can lead to permanent loss of hair follicles, which then leads to permanent hair loss."
How to incorporate cleansing conditioners into your routine
Cleansing conditioners are ideal for use between shampoos. Let's say you exercise a lot every day, your hair sweats and you want to clean it without drying it out too much. A cleansing conditioner will help keep your hair clean between shampoos. A purifying conditioner is also great if you have curly or frizzy hair and are a fan of wash-to-go, which is basically a quick process to wash your hair to redefine the curl pattern.
"If you wash to go, you have to wet your hair every three days anyway. So if your wash day is today, three days from now, you have to wet it again because you want to set your curls, so just wash them together," says Casey LaSure , a Pennsylvania hairstylist. This way you wet your hair and restore your curls without over-drying them with shampoo.
The key to using a cleansing conditioner correctly is to make sure you use it with shampoo, not instead. Dermatologists say you should wash your hair at least every 7 to 10 days, depending on your hair type. Unless your hair gets super greasy and you have a reason to wash it more often, a cleansing conditioner can be your best friend. If you suffer from hair loss or conditions like scalp psoriasis , be sure to consult your dermatologist before trying a cleansing conditioner, as they may prefer that you stick to shampoo.
Shop for some of the best cleansing conditioners you can use
Bread Beauty Supply Hair Wash Mild Hair Milk Cleanser - $20.00
A light and creamy shampoo, this cleanser from Bread Beauty Supply is sandwiched between a cleansing shampoo and conditioner. I love this product and how it feels on my hair. Plus, it smells like the milk that's left in your bowl after consuming fruit flakes. Contains Argan Oil to moisturize and soften, Aloe Vera Juice to balance the scalp and provide much-needed moisture and Lemon Tea Tree Oil to soothe the scalp. It is designed for curly and frizzy hair.
Naturalicious Moroccan Rhassoul 5-in-1 Clay Treatment - $23.00 to $76.00
This treatment is designed to act as a cleanser, conditioner, detangler, deep conditioner and leave-in conditioner. It is made with mineral-rich Moroccan Rhassoul Clay, moisturizing Aloe Leaf, nourishing Cocoa Butter, protective Grape Seed Oil and moisturizing Avocado Oil. It is intended for tight curls and coils.
Colavado Playa Super Seed – $28.00
This new Playa co-wash, designed for curly and frizzy hair, is packed with a nutrient-rich blend of Chia, Flax and Hemp Seeds to strengthen, replenish and protect against breakage. It also contains Kalahari seeds to cleanse and enrich the hair.
Mizani True Textures Cream Conditioner - $27.00
This purifying conditioner gently cleanses hair while keeping it moisturized. Contains Coconut Oil to improve frizz control through moisture, Marula Oil to aid in smoothness and Olive Oil to hydrate and impart shine and smoothness. It is also free from parabens, silicones and sulfates.
Drunk Elephant Laini Non-Lathering Conditioning Co-Cleanser - $45.00
This Drunk Elephant Conditioning Scrubber is designed to gently cleanse hair without lathering. Contains nourishing Rosehip Oil, Marula Oil to moisturize, add shine and smooth the hair shaft, and Sacha Inchi Seed Oil to add shine and repair damage from heat styling. It's designed to work with all hair types.
Carol's Daughter Hair Milk Cleansing Conditioner - $11.00
Designed for waves, curls and wrinkles, this Carol's Daughter Cleansing Conditioner gently cleanses and is formulated with Agave Nectar to detangle, deeply moisturize and condition hair, and Vitamin B5 and Biotin to strengthen hair.
Oribe Moisturizing and Control Cleansing Cream - $46.00
This Oribe cleansing cream uses fruit extracts and cleansing oils to gently remove build-up, dirt and impurities without stripping natural oils. It also contains Water Mint Essence to soothe and Oribe Signature Complex to protect hair from environmental aggressions, oxidative stress, photoaging and the deterioration of natural keratin.
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